Barefoot Indulgence

What is it that makes for a luxurious getaway? Immaculate beaches? Tick. Jaw-dropping tropical sunsets? Tick. Scrumptious food? Tick. Divine overwater bungalows? Tick. Turquoise Waters, Maldives has all of these — but this is quintessential Maldivian with some exceptionally quirky elements.

As an introvert, I find social gatherings and loud environments among some of my least favorite experiences. Coupled with my preferences of solitude for peace and tranquility to be ushered into, when the opportunity struck to escape into a truly Maldivian oasis, I mentally manifested myself out there already. The Maldives archipelago is for those who appreciate peace and admire nature; and arriving into this little slice-of-heaven is simple enough. For most. My journey began at home with a call from The Island Chief, whom take note of my likes and dislikes —bare feet over footwear, hammock over day-bed, white over red. I was soon whisked into a sea plane along with two members from the The Island Chief, we were expected to touch down 25 minutes later somewhere at Baa Atoll, a relatively short flight from the main airport, which for most, involves only a sea plane, or sometimes a domestic flight and a speed boat.

As our sea plane drops from a cloudless, powder-blue sky, we look down over a castaway’s dream; a green oasis fringed with pristine sand, lapped by gleaming white modern cuboids with private pools contrasting with the stunning aqua blues of the Indian Ocean. The water landing was immensely thrilling, with water spraying far and wide as we taxied in. We were greeted by several staff members offering us welcome drinks and cold towel to freshen up with, and Gondo, our “katheeb” (literally “island chief”, but it means butler here) took away our luggage to the check-in desk. To ensure longer days, later sunsets, and extra time for even more idling about, the island has its own time, two hours ahead of the capital Malé.

Amilla Fushi already scores top on the Escapism checklist. Spanning 15 acres of lush vegetation and a breathtaking shoreline with 67 contemporary-style villas called houses — lagoon house, tree house, beach house, ocean lagoon house, ocean reef house and beach residence — have been given the wow-factor by Australian architect Kelvin Ho, who has taken his inspiration for Amilla’s aesthetic. Distinctive decorative and artistic touches are everywhere, all blunt geometry and flat roofs with little to no use of palm-thatched roofing much expected at Maldivian resorts. Natural materials and textures are combined to ensure that the stunning surroundings and the crystal blue waters of Baa Atoll remained the star of the show.

A short introduction of the island, and it’s the hearty lunch hour by the tropical shores at the Emperor Beach Club, the epicenter of the island where culinary, recreation and entertainment intersects. A marketplace for fresh fruits, vegetables, cold meats, deli produce and bakery items; also serving as a beach club with a BBQ area, live DJ and a café with light snacks. The wine shop and cellar door is a delightful treasure trove, boasting over 8,000 bottles from around the globe, offering vintage reds, rare finds and cheese tastings to share over a  spectacular meal. The mains were the Tasmanian salmon and the roasted seabass fillet served with sweet & sour roasted peppers & salmoriglio sauce — there were Nutella cheese cake with cherry sorbet and classic tiramisu followed by salted caramel.

The sooner we were done fulfilling our gastronomic desires, our katheeb took us on his electric buggy car for a detailed tour of the island. I’ve never stayed in a treehouse, but I followed my katheeb and climbed a flight of timber stairs onto a two-bedroom apartment suspended 12-meters in the air, it charmed me from its impressive engineering perspective: 220 square meters plus a large private pool and the vast amount of indoor and outdoor space timber deck at palm-tree height, floating in a sea of greenery. Javvu Spa was another win, Javvu means ”atmosphere”, and it taps into the trend for more all-encompassing spa facilities: the airy reception area is right on the beach around an enormous banyan tree. There’s an over water yoga pavilion, ten wooden double treatment pods with sauna and steam rooms, a plunge pool with indoor and outdoor shower areas. Whether for massage, meditation or exercise, this tranquil island sanctuary soothes with five-star products and treatments that cleanse, calm and beautify. But wait, there’s unlimited water-sports, everything from snorkels to kayaking, kite-surfing, windsurfing, wake-boarding, stand-up-paddle-boarding to Sea Bobs (a type of underwater scooter). And you don’t have to venture out on a boat to see the marine-life; the island is located in the Baa Atoll UNESCO biosphere reserve, close to Hanifaru Bay, and has its own mini ‘Blue Hole’. The resort’s kids’ club is as huge as a village school – featuring palm tree swings, finger-painting and beach activities – teens can play billiards and Xbox games, while childcare and baby-sitting services are offered complimentary. 

Merely a stone’s throw from the ocean, our enormous ocean reef house is only accessible by arterial piers that branched out over the translucent waters, built to blend into its surroundings with a good balance between sleekly modern and cozy. The pale-timbered lounge and the bedroom inspired nautical stripes, abstract patterns and honey-colored woods without veering towards kitsch. The open-plan bathroom is equipped with dinosaur egg-sized tubs, indoor and outdoor monsoon showers, the electric sockets do not require adapters, the amount of lighting and the space to laze and loll proved to be the epitome of intelligent luxury; glass doors open up into the deck overlooking the ocean beyond, yet more amply cushioned sitting areas with slatted screens beside an oblong plunge pool. Progress across timber steps and down a stairways into the ocean for the ultimate in en-suite dips. The water is so translucent and inviting that it’s the perfect place to snorkel; either get your PADI certification from the resort’s dive center if you’re a novice; or refresh your diving skills if you’re a seasoned subterranean explorer. The nearby coral reefs descend into a seemingly infinite array of vibrant corals — there is a steady stream of evocatively named, extravagantly colored fish — black-tipped reef sharks and parrotfish — or watch giant manta rays glide past and schools of silvery mackerel dart in harmony into the air as if flying through imaginary hoops.

I chose to surrender my phone to my katheeb and spend the afternoon in blissful serenity, flitting from pool to ocean, tea to caffeine (pod machines supplied for both, as part of a generous in-room fit-out that also included luxuries such as myriad snacks and full-sized Aesop toiletries). The only sounds were birdsong and waves gently lapping against the stilts of the ocean reef house. And no neighbors in sight; it’s as though the island is mine and mine alone. We arrived on the island just in time to celebrate the International Pizza Day at Joe’s Pizza, a circular pizza counter overlooking the pool and lagoon. Chef Lucas tossed clumps of raw dough onto a wooden pan and into the stone oven, he continued baking several pans of pizzas in his swift rhythm as we watched, and serves each with his sunshine smile, reciting its ingredients — “mushroom & thyme duxelles, roasted peppers, grilled radicchio, wildrocket, gorgonzola”. We polished off two full trays and regretted nothing, I could have done much better on an emptier stomach. A quick glance behind us revealed the sun disappearing into the Indian Ocean at the end of the day, illuminating the sky with awe-inspiring shades of red, orange, yellow and pink. The resort is a selfie central too, with no shortage of photogenic backdrops against which to posture. The much-used hash tag of “my island home” refers to the translation of Amilla Fushi from Dhivehi.

Dining at Amilla Fushi is equally impressive, with a plethora of experiences for the most demanding gourmands, from beach barbecues, intimate dining with your feet in the powder-fine sand, under a never ending sky of twinkling stars, to a cooking lesson at the hands of the resort’s master chefs. Whichever you choose, don’t miss Feeling Koi, the resort’s signature overwater restaurant offering authentic Japanese cuisine with a Latin twist. The restaurant complex Baazaar located by the main pool and uniting five eateries: the Italian Barolo Grill; Asian fusion WOK; Fish and Chips restaurant; and the Fresh breakfast area. Gnocchi with gorgonzola & fresh walnut? seabass or barramundi? Potato cake or mullwara beef rib eye? Big bowls of soupy noodles to an exquisite chocolate confection, rounded off with a drink in the equally elegant Baazaar Bar, where the resort’s resident GIN DOCTOR seek remedies for sober patients and does so much more than just writing prescriptions.

To swim or not to swim? To cruise or not to cruise? Decisions, decisions. How would we ever cope? After a day’s lounging by the pool and sea-side, I chose to get a little more active with an early morning gym session. If you’re with family or friends, a game of tennis will enliven supper debates over who’s the closest thing to Nadal.

Sadly, my stay at Amilla Fushi came to an end. We boarded the sea plane and as its propellers whir to life, we waved and exchanged goodbyes with the resort staff until we disappeared from sight. It still feels like an endless daydream.